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Mongolia- Cycling the Final Frontier

July 15th to July 29th

Ride Coordinator: Thomas Ryan
Report by: Alexandra Phillion

Why cycle in Mongolia? Why not, was a common response among participants at the beginning of this tour. We were all intrigued to learn more about this vast, least populated country in the world.

We met in Ulaanbaatar where half of the country’s 3.7 million people reside. We were transferred to Central Mongolia over 2 days, in large, nine passenger, Russian built, 4-wheel drive vans. They were designed, not for comfort, but for sturdiness.  Thirty cyclists were accompanied by thirty support staff including cycling guides, bike mechanics, drivers, a medical doctor, a camp set up crew and an 11 person cook-clean up crew. The ten van convoy and 37 bicycles were a rare sight crossing Central Mongolia!

Our first night was in a Ger Camp. A Ger is the traditional felt covered round structure still used today by Mongolian nomads. We saw those scattered all over the landscapes of Mongolia. The 6 Ger Camps in which we overnighted, ranged from basic to very attractive and comfortable.

We also spent six nights in tent camps, beside rivers. The rivers provided cold water for showers after a dusty cycling day.  We all enjoyed the delicious, nutritious three daily hot meals prepared by the cook staff. We tasted many traditional Mongolian foods and drinks. Mongolians are meat eaters; mutton, beef and horse are staples. Some of us also tried yak curds, fermented mare’s milk and fried pastries. 

We cycled across the world’s largest remaining grasslands. We rode rented mountain bikes (except for one personal tandem) that proved to be excellent for the terrain. Although we cycled on “Mongolian roads”, it was considered “off road” cycling. The riding surfaces were either grassy, gravelly, rocky, sandy, wet and spongy, or combinations of all of these. It was a challenging ride for most riders with some steep ascents, some technically difficult descents and 30 stream/river crossings. Those with mountain biking and off road experience thrived. 

The views were stunning. We traveled across valley bottoms and climbed mountain passes every day. The valleys comprised large expanses of unfenced green grassland dotted with Gers and large herds of animals roaming the landscape. With over 70 million livestock in Mongolia, our cycling companions were sheep, goats, yaks, kungal (a yak/cow cross), cattle, horses and black eared kite birds. Everyday herds of horses would gallop across the steppes, not far from us, and often crossed a cyclist’s path; those were truly magical moments!  In the evenings, herds of horses, goats, sheep and yaks visited our tent camps.

One night, we soothed our weary muscles in the Tsenkher Hot Springs Ger Camp. Another night at our tent camp by the Orkhon River, we were entertained by our Mongolian friends (staff) to a singing concert. We all stood up when they sang their national anthem.  Mongolians are very proud of their country and heritage.

We visited Karakorum, former capital of the Mongol Empire in the 13th century, whose main attraction is the Erdene Zuu Monastery Museum.

On the last two days of the tour, we had the opportunity to ride a Mongolian horse instead of a bicycle, across the steppes. This was was definitely a unique and exhilarating highlight.

We returned to Ulaanbaatar with hearts full of wonderful memories and friendships. Thank you to all the leaders and guides, especially Tom, Daniel, Aldra, Enkhee, Galaa, and the amazing support staff. The vastness of the landscape has made a permanent impression on us. We were truly blessed to have experienced this amazing trip of a lifetime.

Cycling in Mongolia was indeed a remarkable and successful expedition!  So, why not Mongolia!


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