The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

French Pyrenees Foothills: Atlantic to Mediterranean

May 16th to May 31st

Ride Director: Lucy Glover
Ride Co-Director: Randy Glover
Ride Driver: Josh Shade
Report by: Brian Aldrich

How could you beat crossing the Pyrenees, from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, on an extremely well thought out route, where you can decide whether to climb some of the high Tour de France cols or not? In Biarritz, you can do most anything, go for a swim in the surf or in the large salt water pool, sunbath, go for a coastal ride, or just relax. The only problem with Biarritz is that you don’t want to leave!

Beginning our ride on scenic “green” roads, we could already see high Pyrenees in the distance. We stayed in various towns, such as St Palais, Salies de Bearn, and Arudy on our way toward distant snowcapped peaks.

Who would imagine after about 10 kilometers along a beautiful forest bike path that you would suddenly emerge into a cacophony of marching bands, hordes of believers, and people seeking to be healed at the Lourdes Cathedral, built at the cavern where 14-year-old Bernadette saw images of the Virgin Mary. The miracle for us was magically emerging from one bike path for our visit to the cathedral, then navigating bustling streets and slipping back onto a bike path on the other side of town.

The weather cleared just in time for the option of climbing the Tourmalet or the Col D’Aspin. In front of our “sports hotel,” an impressive statue of a buffed cyclist pointed the way towards the Tourmalet! Four of us tackled the Tourmalet and several conquered the Col d’Aspin. There is a monument to Cristophe, who on the 1913 Tour de France broke his fork on the Tourmalet, had to forge a new one and continue on to Luchon. That day’s stage encompassed five of our riding days!

We rode from Bagneres de Bigorre to Bagneres de Luchon, settling into a hotel on an elegant avenue of stately buildings with ornate balconies on every floor. Another lovely rest day allowed for a beautiful climb up the Col du Portillon to the Spanish border and/or the option of visiting “Les Thermes,” a spa featuring a huge sauna inside a cave and a very large mineral water warm pool.

Leaving Luchon, on the highway, we heard a sharp whistle and stopped to watch a shepherd stop traffic and he and his collie escort their flock of 300-some sheep across the road. The weather was warming up; some of us braved the unheated swimming pool at our oasis-like hotel in St. Girons. Our elegant dinner was under umbrellas in the courtyard garden. The desserts were works of art.

We readied our headlamps for the next day’s ride through the huge “Mas d’Azil” cave, then arrived in Foix for a two-night stay. The optional rest day loop east of Foix was quite lovely, with the longest and most gentle downhill back to town. From Foix, we rode on to stay at our very own castle, the Chateau de Ducs Joyeaux.

A challenging ride brought us next to the Domaine Riberach, with sensational architecture and landscape design. Our lodging and dinner there were exquisite in every way. Just a few steps away is the excellent “Chateau-Musee de Belesta,” a fascinating display of prehistoric findings.

The trip ended with a two day stay by the Mediterranean in charming Collioure. Bikes were packed by a lovely fountain in the peaceful courtyard, and we had a farewell dinner by the sea.

This was a most satisfying and fascinating adventure. Hats off to our leaders Lucy and Randy, to Gilbert Jean, who originally planned the route, and to Josh Shade, our amazing van driver!