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Nova Scotia: South Shore, Kejimkujik, & Annapolis Valley

September 10th to September 22nd

Ride Director: Sue Smith
Ride Co-Director: David Smith
Report by: Noreen Drucker

 

After spending the first night in Halifax, our trip to Nova Scotia began with a visit to Peggy’s cove, a former shipping village and home to one of the most photographed lighthouses in North America.  From there, we pedaled along the rugged coast of Nova Scotia, with the wind at our backs and the sun glinting off the bay.

Temperatures hovered in the high seventies as we rode on spectacular coastal roads with very light traffic.

We continued over rolling terrain, through the Hubbards and Mahone Bay areas, catching glimpses of the sea and surf. After a few challenging climbs we arrived in Lunenburg, a larger port town with a harbor full of schooners from the past and present day sailing ships. Lunenburg offered lots of options for weary bikers- a plethora of restaurants with great views of the water and delicious sea food typical of the Maritimes. As we had an extra day here, we kayaked with a local guide, went swimming and explored the town, the galleries and the local shops. We took photos of glorious sunsets, with ships glimmering in the foreground

The next day it was on to the interior of Nova Scotia and Kejimkujik  National Park, once home to the First Nation, the Mi'kmaq or Mi'gmaq. After stopping at the museum and watching a video about the park we set off in different directions. Some of us rode the trails, others went birdwatching , while others pedaled on the winding roads shielded by the maple, oak and evergreen trees.

There were few places to stop for food or water on this route, but our ride leaders, Dave and Sue made sure that we had provisions for our ride. They set out “the fixins” that morning. We made  very substantial sandwiches, grabbed some trail mix, and filled up an extra water bottle.

We followed the road to Annapolis Royal, a small town with enough history to fill a book. Fort Anne was a valuable military stronghold in colonial times because of its strategic location on the Bay of Fundy. The struggles between the French and the English to control it , went on for many years and resulted in a tremendous loss of life. Today the entire history is uniquely told in an exquisite four paneled tapestry hanging in the museum.

All of us took advantage of the “Graveyard Candlelight Tour”, told by  a very knowledgeable local resident, in periodic dress. On that cold, eerie Nova Scotian night  we learned about the early inhabitants of Annapolis and the ghosts that still might inhabit the place. Some of us were so intrigued that we got up early the next morning to make sure they were still in the graves!

 

Riding from Annapolis to Kingston the scenery changed drastically. With the Bay of Fundy on our left  we travelled  north and east into some of the richest farmlands in Nova  Scotia. We saw cows and sheep, goats and horses at every turn in the road. Apple orchards with the fruit ready to be picked , apple pies for sale at the side of the road, free range chickens ready to cross the road, cornfields, silos and big red barns surrounded us. There were some challenging climbs and twisting roads to round out the beauty of the scenery. And as expected a few unrestricted downhills!

The trip ended in Wolfville, in the heart of wine country. Our last ride was nothing short of spectacular-beautiful weather, incredible vistas, and winery after winery with ripe grapes on the vine and bottles of wine ready to be tasted.

No matter where we ate, from a café by the river, to a local pub or a fancy restaurant, all the food was delicious and crafted with an incredible amount of care. Lobster, salmon and scallops were always on a menu and the service was always friendly.

The people of Nova Scotia are very warm, and always willing to help out. The drivers are extremely courteous. They stop at a pedestrian crosswalk before you even get there and they do not run yellow lights

When they see riders on the road, they slow down or stop and wait until it  is safe to pass. The driver on the other side calmly moves over and waits as well. AND no one honks their horn!

This trip was successful in every aspect due to our tour leaders. Thank you Sue and Dave for your leadership and dedication to this ride. You did careful research and handled all of the logistics, making sure the participants had an enjoyable experience.  You chose lodgings  that surpassed our expectations and meals we never expected ( like the salmon cooked on a plank ). We are very grateful for all that you did.

Noreen Drucker


Bicycle Adventure Club
PO BOX 23998 San Diego, CA 92193
Telephone (858) 715-9510 office@bicycleadventureclub.org

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