Ride Director: Nelson Diaz
Ride Co-Director: Patrick Engstrom
Report by: Ernie Coose
You don’t have to take our word that Mallorca is a cycling gem. There were many cyclists from many countries all over the island. Along the beach trail near Palma, it was the ‘flip-flops on cruiser bikes’ crowd. Once outside of town though, we were frequently passed (some of us more often than others) by groups of fit cyclists on top shelf road bikes. Many were tourists like us and quick to share a smile or a word of encouragement in their home language as we climbed the hill of the moment. Others were squads of young stone-faced Europeans, obviously there for race training with no time for distractions.
Our general route plan was to base near the capital city Palma for the first couple of days. On day three, we rode the flatlands entirely across the island. Then we hopscotched back to Palma over the rest of the trip, staying for a couple nights each in the pretty seaside towns of Port de Pollenca, Port de Soller, and Banyalbufar, as well as on an olive farm. Our seaside towns were all at the foot of the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range, so every day’s riding started with a steady climb upward along miles of switch backed roads. Every day ended with a brake-heating plunge back down to the ocean. In between, the scenery was rich with cliff side views over the Mediterranean, vertigo-inducing rocky peaks, and pine forests. Mountain goats were a fun addition to the roadside (and sometimes on-road) scenery.
One highlight was cycling the winding road to the Cap de Formentor lighthouse, situated far out on a jagged rocky peninsula. Another was the most famous Sa Calobra road, with 26 hairpin bends, a stretch of 10% grade, and stunning views the whole way. That grade was a rarity though. Thanks to the many switch backs all over the island, no other climbs were painfully steep.
Traffic was light and only became moderate when in Palma or if we had to ride a bit near a highway. Drivers did a generally good job of waiting and passing us without discomfort. They deserve credit because the roads are often twisty and narrow, so it takes a while to find a passing spot. Motorcycle riders are attracted to Mallorca for the same reasons as us, so we were sometimes passed by very fast and loud bikes that were a little scary. There are occasional lumbering tourist busses on the popular roads.
It never rained or went over 85 degrees.
Our hotels were very nice, mid-range in their accommodations and first rate in their locations and scenery. In Bunyalbufar, our hotel patio hung 300 meters over the ocean and was pointed to have full view of the setting sun. The food available at our hotels and in area restaurants was generally excellent, with lots of fresh fish and squid (snails one night!) and meat dishes. Vegetables are sometimes an
afterthought in Mallorcan meals. Olives never are. This was a trip focused on cycling, beautiful scenery, and relaxation. Mallorca is not an ABC (another beautiful church) region.
We had the good luck to be staying in Port de Soller during their Es Firo festival. ALL the townspeople turn out in costume to celebrate their victory over Moorish pirates who tried to pillage the town in 1561. Our hotel host Luis gave us a wonderful description of the historical background and the local ‘enthusiasm’ we should expect to see on the evening they would reenact the battle. Per their tourism website, ‘lots of fireworks and a fairly Mallorcan disregard for health and safety make this one of the best days of the year to visit Port de Soller’. It took place on the beach literally at the front door of our hotel, so we had front row seats on our hotel balconies to experience history (or a wild costume party with fake swordplay).
Our Palma hotel was co-located with the Fred Rompelberg bike shop, where a number of us rented good-quality bikes. Fred has held the world land speed record on a bicycle since 1990, when he pedaled 268 kilometers per hour. Don’t be discouraged about your personal best. Fred did it while drafting behind a dragster on the Bonneville Salt Flats. He dropped by at dinner and generously joined us for many photos.
Nelson Diaz and Pat Engstrom richly deserve our appreciation for their efforts and their care for all of us. Theirs was a tightly-planned trip, with every detail tied down. They were warm hosts, always available and generous with their time.
Bicycle Adventure Club
PO BOX 23998 San Diego, CA 92193
Telephone (858) 715-9510 office@bicycleadventureclub.org