The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Sicilian Baroque Beauties 2018: Section 1

May 5th to May 15th

Ride Director: Syd Smoot
Ride Co-Director: Ken Keeler
Report by: Elizabeth Young

Ride Directors: Syd Smoot & Ken Keeler

Greeters: Jim & Shelee Brenneman

Photography: Jim Takasugi 

Tripper report: Liz Young

In early May some 36 “BAC Beauties” descended upon southeast Sicily. Yet, we did not feel like strangers upon arrival in Catania. Familiarity was the starting point. Many riders knew each other from previous BAC jaunts. Moreover, each participant had long been introduced to Sicily. Our Ride Directors had provided everyone with excellent pre-trip guidance and bike route information. Every detail was in hand. Every rider knew what seamless fun lay ahead. And although initial expectations ran very high, our Ride Directors exceeded them in every manner. As did Sicily itself.

Southeast Sicily was inviting. Small villages rest on hilltops or sit quietly beside the sea. The vibrant blue color of the Mediterranean cannot be forgotten. The countryside is surprisingly green and active with food production. Poppies and wildflowers bloomed. Hillsides were parcelled and terraced by endless rock walls constructed over the centuries. Limestone rock is everywhere.  Hay bails were wrapped in the colours of the Italian flag. Yet the proud Sicilian identity also flourished. The three-legged Medusa-headed symbol of Sicily was evident throughout.

For bicycling, this is GPS country. Don’t even try it without one. To ride eastward you may need to start westward. Gorges and canyons dominate the landscape, surrounded by roads snaking around the contours. Sometimes you proceed beside steep rock faces pockmarked with caves.

Yet we conquered the contours together. By bicycle. We enjoyed the views together. We cycled downwards to seaside villages and upwards to hilltop villages. Just ask us about the beauty and features of Noto, Syracuse, Ortygia, Ragusa Ibla, Modica, Marzamemi, Portopalo, Scicli and other villages.. At higher elevations goats skip about as you ride by. Cows were far less impressed by cyclists. They steadfastly held their ground as we passed. Road surfaces on country roads were of surprisingly good quality. Road surfaces in more populated areas were perhaps less so. Sicilian drivers were described as assertive, but no problems were reported by riders. All was good.

We primarily enjoyed pleasant temperatures in Sicily.  We sipped coffee under umbrellas, languishing in the springtime warmth and carefree pace of small village squares. We sought not to let our group presence overpower that quiet ambience. Ortygia was the exception to quiet. Our Sunday morning arrival in Ortygia was greeted by two loud bands and special period costumes marking the Saint Lucia procession. Lucky us.

We also learned about successive waves of civilization in Sicily: of Corinthian settlers, Greeks, Romans, Spaniards and others. It’s a long list. We stared at antiquities; we observed Baroque architecture in abundance. Our history teachers would be proud. We offset this educational goodness with ample time loafing beside the pool. It was all very civilized.

The ride format for this trip allowed us this flexibility. It was a fixed-base trip of eleven days. Two hotels (in sequence) served as home base for our daily excursions. Riding was available every day, but not mandatory except for one switch-up day. Some participants watched Giro d’Italia racers storm by a nearby village. Others pursued further archeological sites. Meanwhile others sought quiet time in the shade. Each individual did what they wanted to do. It was perfect.

It should be noted that our two hotels provided us excellent food, service and comfort. We suffered no hardships. Villa Favorita (near Noto) did seem to be a favorite.

We also enjoyed Sicilian foodstuffs, including local pasta, arrancini, risotto, fish, and special breads. The octopus was tender and good. Really. Patisserie and gelaterie was not overlooked. Sampling cannolo and cassata was required study.  Gelato and granita investigation was necessary. Many riders tried a glass of Nero d’Avola or other local varietals.. They chose wisely. There was uniquely different chocolate from Modica. The lemons were gigantic in size. We were surrounded by olives and local fruits. .

We cannot overreach when praising our excellent ride leaders. Syd Smoot and Ken Keeler created a wonderful cycling visit to southeast Sicily. Their leadership and trip management was superb. It is difficult work to organize and herd 36 cats in challenging terrain. They calmly made it look easy. We are greatly indebted to them for their exceptional service. BAC is lucky, indeed.

The trip was brilliant. If you have the chance, GO!

Jim Takasugi sent this link to shared photos for the ride https://photos.app.goo.gl/OVVX7xuxz3OJOcP32