The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Patagonia, A Chile & Argentina Adventure

January 6th to January 20th

Ride Coordinator: Robert Deering
Report by: Nancy Thomas

On January 6, 2019, the BAC club members started off on the inaugural ride to Patagonia, the Patagonia Lake district of Chile and Argentina, lead by member Robert Deering, accompanied by commercial outfitter, Redspokes of the United Kingdom, with their local proxy guides from BikeWays of Bariloche, Argentina.

The ride commenced at the Hotel Frutillar, in Frutillar, Chile.  Most members flew into Puerto Montt airport, via Santiago, and were provided a free transfer to Frutillar. 

The crew of Bikeways (Bosco, Tolke, Gustavo and Shal) were ready to go with Specialized Rockhoppers, 46mm tires to ‘conquer’ the 77 miles of gravel roads that awaited us on the various days of the tour.  Most all bikes had disc brakes with compact cranks.  If you were not familiar with mountain biking, and the finesse needed to ‘shift’ at the right time while riding on gravel, members were soon to be acquainted with the finer points of gravel riding in the days ahead! 

On the ‘warm up ride’ January 7 around Lake Llanquihue (the second largest lake in Chile with an area of about 330 sq mi), it was an overcast day.  Little did anyone realize Mt. Osorno was lurking in the horizon only to be discovered in a few days.  Volcano Osorno (8,701 ft) is a symbol of the local landscape, and is noted for its similar appearance to Mount Fuji.  A bit of gravel road was encountered – just enough to test the shocks in the front fork!  Lunch was provided at a quaint local restaurant, and the rest of the day available to explore the colonial German architecture of Frutillar.

On January 8, the group headed off to Puerto Varas, 63k, cycling the shores of Lake Llanquihue with the views of Mt. Osorno, and the other noted volcanos Puntiagudo, Tronador, and Calbuco still unseen due to cloud cover. Just before arrival to Hotel Patagonia, the skies opened up with a chilling ‘soft’ rain.  Lunch at a local Mediterranean styled restaurant was welcomed. Puerto Varas has a stunning waterfront, again with German colonial architecture and every type of outdoor sport store/outfitter for hiking, kayaking, mountain climbing, and beyond.  It was easy to find a Patagonia and North Face store, just in case you forgot something at home!  Also, a multitude of cafes and pastry shops were enjoyed.

As start time approached on day 4, cycling 57k on pavement to Cascada, the skies opened up again as we left bundled in our Shower’s Pass attire.  By the time we arrived 20k for a coffee break, the clouds gave way to sun.  The air still had a chill, but the lunch stop provide a warm, welcoming restaurant – potbelly fireplace included - to dry (or burn in some cases!) our clothing.  After lunch, almost half of the group braved the 11k ascent to Mt. Osorno, an average of 12% grade (some points 19%!) to the rustic Teski lodge.  

On the morning of day 5, time was available to enjoy the chair lift to the top of Mt. Osorno to have a memorable view of Lake Llanquihue and surroundings.  After lunch, all riders enjoyed a 10k downhill from the volcano.  We then carried on to Petrohue to board a ferry for a 2-hour boat trip to Puella, with an incredible view of all the volcanos in full view.  The sun did not stop shining!  After leaving the ferry, we rode our bikes to the Hotel Puella and had time to explore the tiny town and waterfalls.

Ready to cross the border into Argentina only 50 meters from our hotel, on day 6 we cycled 29k on a rugged, loose gravel road toward Puerto Frias, Argentina. The sun was shining, confident only good weather was ahead.  After reaching the ferry point crossing, along the same route as Che Guevara, a model of the famous Poderosa motorcycle awaited as we boarded the short 20 minute crossing of Lake Frias. We arrived in Puerto Alegre/Puerto Blest on Lake Najuel Huapi Lake. 

The next several days, we cycled in Argentina’s Lake district, enjoying a two night stay in Bariloche, where some explored hiking Cerro Catedral mountain, kayaked Nahuel Huapi or just enjoyed the town.  On day 9, the Seven Lakes Road to San Martin de los Andes was paved for the 80k route, with temperatures now in the heat of summer!   We were now exploring the Mapuche areas – the indigenous country people of Argentina.  Traveling 32k on gravel road to Argentinian and Chilean customs, we now re-entered Chile along the Huahum path on day 11.  An hour and a half ferry dropped us in Port Fuy.  A 23k paved road took us to Choshuenco , where a few riders experienced punctures, with bits of glass on the road. The night was spent at a rustic, but comfortable accommodation.

En route to Pucon, day 12, a paved road was enjoyed most of the way, up and down to Lake Calafquen.  A visit to Pucon for two nights allowed some riders to explore thermal baths, massage or the ‘most fit’ conquered the crater of Volcano Villarica.

Day 13 was a challenging, hot day on 16k of a loose, dusty, gravel path.  The 90 degree temperature and hot chicken soup lunch was somewhat of a surprise to most!  A rustic (cabaña) styled hotel with a pool awaited our evening.  With our last day in sight to Conguillio National Park, 40k was cycled on paved road, with an uphill, volcanic/sand gravel road thru the Conguillio Park entrance.  Surrounded by black lava fields and the active Llaima Volcano in view, the tour ended at the ecolodge .  Verde and Arco Iris (rainbow) lagoons were within a 6k gravel road to explore.  Transfers to Temuco airport followed after a night at the foot of the volcano.  Although a lot of transfers via van, ferry and border crossings occurred, the ominous logistics undertaken by our guides allowed everyone to experience the Patagonia Lake District as BAC members for the first time!