The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Dia De Los Muertos in Oaxaca

October 30th to November 11th

Ride Coordinator: Sam Nuckols
Report by: Peggy Blair

Fourteen Norteamericanos plunged into Dia de Muertos festivities from the moment we arrived.  Oaxaca was in fiesta to remember the dearly departed with food, music, and dancing.  Not a sad occasion!  We joined the revelry:  walking, talking skeletons decked in finery…raucous parades…stilt walkers…street vendor…face painters.  One of us adorned himself with the hollow eyes and fractured skull of the holiday celebrants--and frightened his unfortunate, late-arriving roommate!  We visited cemeteries where the living were cleaning graves, adorning them with giant marigolds.  Joy abounded in the memories of their loved ones.

We also rode!  EcoColors fitted our bikes, installed pedals and saddles.  Then, it was 1600' up to the archaeological site Monte Alban.  With our aerobic systems barely functioning, many of us huffed and wheezed the six-mile climb.  It was worth it!  The views of Oaxaca and her mountains were stunning.  The extensive Zapoteca ruins framed what we would see and learn in the days ahead.

Leaving Oaxaca, we headed to Tule, Mitla, and the distant mountains.  Topes.  Potholes.  Mal Camino.  Scooters.  Exhaust fumes...mucho humo!

California has redwoods, but Tule has the widest tree in the world.  Our 7-year-old, fully credentialed, pint-sized guide pointed out animals, political figures, spiritual creatures, and other icons interpreted in the gnarled branches.

On to Mitla, following a web of narrow roads.  Dia de Muertos was over, but the town center was still a whirl of lights, music, dancing, laughing children, and lengthy, incomprehensible speech making.  

The next morning one of our riders had succumbed to...Montezuma's revenge?  Mezcal?  Down for the count!  The rest of us rode toward the caves at Xaaga to see prehistoric murals. A strenuous trail led high above the river canyon.  One of us drew first blood after a rock attacked his forearm.

Soon three more were added to the injury list.  One fell into a sand patch, another took a slow speed fall.  The most serious catapulted over the front of her bike, resulting in a swirling purple and black eye.  Lucky--no broken bones, just bruised egos.  Nothing we couldn't forget after experiencing the stunning Boiling Waters and Petrified Waterfalls.

Then, on to the high mountains -- a 6900' climb of 15 miles to the town of Cuajimoloyas at 10,000'.  Steep pitches.  Rough surfaces.  Thin air.  Camino sinuso.  Curvo peligroso!  Four riders finished the climb.  True grit!

The remote camp taught us Nortenos to appreciate hot water and heated rooms.  Both were in short supply.  Brrr!  It was a rugged location.  Dinner was cooked in a cabin over a log fire.  So tasty!  Next day -- despite the trepidation of those from the flatlands --all enjoyed an amazing, scenic descent.  

So many vignettes over the next few days.  Truchas!  Fresh trout farmed by the mountain indigenous people.  Home of Benito Juarez, liberator of Mexico.  Eco-turixtlan mountain cabins.  Riding to the gold mine.

Through it all we had the leadership of El Capitan Sam Nuckols helming his first BAC trip.  Do it again, Sam!  You and your Faithful Companion and Interpreter Gail are special people.

A full-throated shout-out to EcoColors:  Fernando, cool-headed crew chief; Clemente, erudite cultural guru; Raymundo, unflappable big rig driver; and Gabriel, cheery bike mechanic.  Their distinctive personalities lent our tour sugar and spice.

Last, the 14 riders -- a few couples but mostly singles -- were the key to this fantastic trip (even though 4 riders were attorneys with their great lawyer jokes.)

Oaxaca, we loved you.  Romantic, challenging, diverse, intriguing.  We'll remember you.