The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Nova Scotia: South Shore, Kejimkujik, Annapolis Valley

September 6th to September 18th

Ride Director: David Smith
Ride Co-Director: Sue Smith
Ride Driver: Arielle Dykes
Report by: Andrea Diamond

Living up to the A in BAC, the tour got off to an adventurous start with Hurricane Dorian on a direct track to make landfall in Halifax on our first riding day. The tour leaders wisely decided to wait out the storm at our point of origin, so we hunkered down in Halifax. Fortunately the Westin hotel, a sturdy brick and concrete building on the waterfront, was able to accommodate us for a second night where we witnessed mother nature's formidable display of power. Unfortunately our destinations for the next two nights were impacted by the storm, so after an additional night at another hotel in Halifax, we were finally on our way on day three! 

First we were driven to Peggy's Cove to see the famous lighthouse, one of Nova Scotia's iconic landmarks. The lighthouse, set against a brilliant blue sky and sitting atop massive boulders, was a sight to behold. After devouring mouthwatering lobster rolls we piled back into vans to be transported to a start point further along the route where we finally began cycling. We rode along the south shore, glimpsing the beautiful, jagged coastline with its picturesque bays and inlets. We spent two nights in Lunenburg, a Unesco World Heritage site. Founded in 1753, Lunenburg is considered to be the best example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America. It is a charming and colorful town.

We continued on to Liverpool where we delved into the privateering history of the town with a visit to the lighthouse and the Queens County museum. Stories of the Lane family history shared by the owner of the inn added a personal touch to the experience.

Biking the inland route to the north shore through forests dotted with glacial lakes, we arrived at the charming town of Annapolis Royal. History came alive there as a guide regaled us with stories during the lantern tour of the cemetery that many of us, casting our superstitions aside, dared to take on Friday the 13th under a full harvest moon. During the layover day we visited shops and galleries in town, wandered around Fort Anne, explored crafts and goods at the weekly market, and learned about harnessing the power of the extreme Fundy Bay tides at the Annapolis Tidal Plant, the only tidal power station in North America.

Next, we pedaled to Kingston where we spent the night before embarking on the final leg of our tour. The scenery was varied and bucolic, filled with orchards, cornfields, vineyards and pastures. The rolling terrain was so perfect that the hills practically rode themselves. We arrived in Wolfville where our two night stay enabled us to enjoy various attractions of the area: wineries, tidal extremes, and the UNESCO World Heritage site at Grand-Pré where we learned about the native Mi'kmaq people, the Acadian settlers, and the battles between France and Britain over this coveted land.

The scenery, history, charming villages, quaint inns, and amazing food at our group dinners (especially the gourmet fare and wine pairings on our final night in Wolfville), all made for an outstanding trip. But what set this apart was the unique experience of grappling with the hurricane and its impact on our itinerary. Kudos to our resourceful tour leaders, David, Sue, and Arielle (with help from her husband Ron), who worked overtime, scrambling to adapt to the rapidly changing situation. Hats off also to Bill Bracken, whose relative in Lunenburg helped us connect with lodgings when communications were still out. And applause to the entire group who remained flexible and took all of these changes in stride with good humor.