Ride Coordinator: Katherine Thompson
Report by: Susan Young
Bicycle Adventure Club
Tripper Report for Brittany-Normandy Cycling Trip
24 May to 6 June 2019
-by Susan Young, BAC member
We hailed from Arizona, California, Colorado, Wisconsin and New York to embark on a cycling adventure of the Brittany and Normandy regions of France. BAC leaders Katherine Thompson and Julia Lapp, along with Patrick Leneveu of Normandie Rando Bike Tours, guided us on a memorable journey commemorating the 75th anniversary of D-Day. Along the way we marveled at the beautiful scenery, embraced the history and culture of the regions, and indulged in the local fare all the while managing to enjoy dry (mostly), pleasant weather.
Our journey began in the lovely town of Saint-Malo on the coast of La Manche, “the sleeve,” which separates Northern France from Southern England. The old walled town of granite buildings and cobblestone streets afforded views of the channel and Fort National, built in 1689 to protect Saint-Malo’s port. It is accessible by foot at low tide as is the shoreline swimming pool which appears as the tide recedes. It was in Saint-Malo that many of us sampled our first galette, a buckwheat crepe filled with an assortment of savory temptations. The beautiful beach and history of this port town has made it a popular tourist destination.
The first ride took us along the coast under sunny skies to the town of Cancale, the oyster capital of France. Prior to reaching Cancale, we rode to Pointe du Grouin at the westernmost tip of the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel for panoramic views. Here we sampled whelks and periwinkles, both types of sea snails. We also feasted on moules, or mussels, a common dish in Brittany and Normandy in the summer months. Cancale is a port town home to large oyster beds. We were amused by the fishing boats that were “docked” on the bed of the bay when the tide was out, waiting for the tide to roll back in to continue their journeys. The tide was low when we arrived which gave us the opportunity to tour the oyster beds. Cancale produces 15,000 tons of oysters per year. Naturally, we had to sample the local fare. Freshly harvested and shucked, we tossed back the oysters before tossing the shells onto the beach where the seagulls picked them clean. A group dinner at the hotel gave us time to socialize with new friends and consume more fresh fish!
The following day our ride schedule was delayed due to an international marathon departing Cancale. It was an amazing sight, cheering on wave after wave of marathon runners as they departed. As luck would have it, runners and bike riders were all headed to the magnificent Mont Saint-Michel. Despite our delayed start, a few of us caught up to the runners as they neared the finish, but we rode among them respectfully. The medieval monastery of Mont Saint-Michel is a sight to behold. It was built over hundreds of years in the bay where Brittany and Normandy merge and can be seen from miles away. The mount remains a place of Christian pilgrimage and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
On our ride from Mont-Saint-Michel to Avranches, we encountered the Brittany American Cemetery and Memorial where over 4,000 U.S. soldiers are laid to rest. Most lost their lives in the WWII Brittany and Normandy Campaigns of 1944. It is both a beautiful and emotional tribute to the Americans who gave the ultimate sacrifice for freedom. The cemetery is in St. James, famous for its fortress built in 1066 under William the Conqueror. Also, of note was the German Cemetery at Huisnes-Sur-Mer. The remains of over 11,000 German soldiers from WWII are at rest here in a circular mausoleum. The liberation of Avranches was led by General George S. Patton; a memorial in his honor stands in the town square.
The ride from Avranches to Granville took us along the coast where views of Mont-Saint-Michel were visible from afar. We rode among fields of wheat, barley, and sugar beets along with waves of the famous red poppies, an international symbol of remembrance since WWI. The port town of Granville has magnificent views of the sea, especially when viewed from the ramparts of the Haute-Ville, or Upper Town. An old Gothic church, stone mansions and remnants of German concrete blockhouses are present in the Haute-Ville. The childhood home of Christian Dior is also here, and many toured the house and beautiful gardens surrounding the estate. The Dior House, a museum, was exhibiting Grace Kelly’s wardrobe; she was truly a “Princess in Dior.” Most of us agreed that beautiful Granville would be a lovely place to retire.
With three routes from which to choose, the ride to Sainte-Marie-du-Mont brought us closer to the American landing sites on the beaches of Normandy during WWII in what was called Operation Overlord. It was here that the U.S. 101st Airborne first encountered the Nazis on D-Day. We cycled past a Medieval chateau, built in the 14th century to protect Regneville harbor. It is now classified as a historic monument. We also rode past the Pont de la Roque, a bridge at the confluence of the Sienne and Soulles Rivers.
As part of Operation Cobra, the Allies destroyed the bridge in an unsuccessful attempt to prevent the Germans from retreating. Two of the three bike routes were inland on quiet, narrow country roads lined with hedgerows. Oftentimes we forgot the roads accommodated cars. The hedgerows lining the roads date back to Roman times and were built to enclose pastures and mark property lines. They proved a challenge for the Allies to navigate. Tanks nicknamed “Rhinos” were fitted with cutting devices to improve mobility through the bocage (a mixture of woodland and pasture).
Our ride ended with light rain at a beautiful chateau. Here for two nights, we enjoyed group dinners and an opportunity for socializing. Several took a group tour of the American landing sites on D-Day: Utah Beach, Omaha Beach and Pointe de Hoc. Riders toured Utah Beach and Sainte-Mere-Eglise on the bike. Activities on the beaches were picking up as tourists arrived for D-Day celebrations. For those of us on the guided tour, we gained an excellent understanding of how the campaign on the beaches of Normandy were staged, the immensity of the task at hand and the difficulties the Allies faced in driving back the Germans. We visited all the memorials, museums and cemeteries that timed allowed. It was an honor to pay tribute to the fallen soldiers from this important WWII campaign.
The following day under cloudy skies, we departed for Bayeux via Carentan, Grandcamp Maisy, Pointe du Hoc and Omaha Beach. In Carentan we rode over a famed Bailey bridge, in honor of US Major John Tucker who sacrificed his life ensuring the bridge was laid to benefit Allied forces. A Bailey bridge is a portable, pre-fabricated, truss bridge developed by the British but used by Canadian and US military engineers alike. In the fishing port of Grandcamp Maisy, several of us enjoyed a lunch of fresh fish.
Near the Normandy beaches, we began to see more vintage vehicles, tanks, period equipment and re-enactment camps in celebration of D-Day. A lovely couple from Holland, dressed in 1944 attire (she in seamed stockings no less), arrived in a 1940 military-style Plymouth and told us they came every year to spend three weeks traveling the area in celebration of the liberation of France from German occupation. The American Cemetery overlooks Omaha Beach where 9,387 fallen soldiers are laid to rest. After leaving the coast, we rode through the countryside under blue skies towards Bayeaux. Upon entering town, we stopped at the largest British war cemetery in Normandy to pay our respects.
We stayed two nights in Bayeaux which allowed us to explore this medieval town, the renowned Cathedral Notre Dame and world-famous Bayeaux Tapestry. Parts of the Cathedral date back to 1077 but most was built in the 13th to 15th centuries in Gothic style. The stained-glass windows are beautiful and tell the story of William the Conqueror and his conquest of England in 1066. The famous Bayeaux Tapestry also relates the story of William the Conqueror in magnificent style and was hand-made shortly after he invaded and assumed control of England. The tapestry is about 80 meters long and 50 centimeters high – a truly impressive and detailed depiction of battle and daily life.
Those choosing to ride the second day in Bayeaux did a loop to Arromanches and Gold Beach (stormed by the British) where remains of artificial harbors designed by the British (called mulberries) are still visible in the bay. A 360-degree cinema movingly depicts the emotions of the 100 days of the Battle of Normandy to liberate the region. The circular cinema opened for the 50th anniversary of the D-Day landings. Don’t miss this attraction if you are in the area; it’s impossible to leave dry-eyed! An important part of the Atlantic Wall (coastal defense and fortifications built by the Nazis) is found at Longues sur Mer on the cliffs overlooking La Manche. Allied battleships at sea were able to disable the battery on D-Day. To the east of Gold Beach are Juno Beach (stormed by the Canadians) and Sword Beach (stormed by the British). Fortunately, our route out of Bayeaux the following day took us by these important WWII landing sites.
As we left the beaches of Normandy and headed inland to Caen, the beauty of the bay was replaced with fields of agriculture and beautiful chateaus. This region of Normandy, known as Calvados, is a major producer of butter, cheese, cider and Calvados, a brandy made from apples or pears. We rode past apple orchards and fields of sugar beets as well as many pastures where dairy cattle were grazing. It was a clear, sunny day and bordered on the warmer side for riding; no rain gear was required.
Arriving in Caen, most of us visited the Memorial of Caen, a very comprehensive museum covering the conflicts in the 20th Century, particularly WWII. A section even commemorated the campaign against the Japanese in the Pacific. Since 1994, American, Canadian and British Gardens have opened to commemorate the main Allies who stormed the beaches of Normandy on D-Day. After a group dinner at our hotel, many headed out to explore on foot. We climbed the walls of the Caen Castle, built on the ruins of William the Conqueror’s fortress. From atop the castle wall, there were many churches visible, most built in the 11-13th centuries.
Shortly after departing Caen under cloudy, cool skies, we rode the Pegasus Bridge across the Caen Canal. The British 6th Airborne Division was charged with protecting this and a second bridge over the River Orne to prevent the Germans from destroying them. The division arrived via Horsa gliders; code names “Ham” (canal bridge captured) and “Jam” (river bridge captured) signaled their success. The bridges were renamed Pegasus after the emblem of the British airborne forces and Horsa, the type of glider used to carry troops. The Pegasus bridge was originally built in 1934 and the span opens from one end to allow clearance for passing boats. Interestingly, while visiting the memorial on the banks of the canal, we were able to observe the bridge in action.
We rode along the coast towards our destination of Trouville, the childhood home of our tour guide, Patrick. As we rode along La Manche, vintage military planes were flying overhead. As the day was warming, we felt it was a good opportunity to stop and dip our feet into the Channel. Amusingly, as we were on the beach, a beach sweeper was making passes to smooth the sand, much like a Zamboni resurfaces ice rinks. Along the ride, we passed through the towns of Cabourg and Villers-sur-Mer with beautiful villas of interesting architecture. Two distinctly different towns, Trouville and Deauville, are separated at the mouth of the Touques River. Trouville is an old fishing harbor and a wonderful fresh-fish market is near the river. There is a beautiful beach area for lounging, swimming, gaming or imbibing. Deauville, across the river, is a newer town created under Napolean 3rd for the wealthy to vacation and enjoy horse racing and gambling. The rich and famous can be spotted here during the American Film Festival.
Today, our destination was the town of Honfleur at the estuary of the Seine River. We rode through the hilly, green countryside to the Pays d’Auge, an area between the departments of Calvados and Orne. There were many farms and half-timbered manor houses. Some houses had thatched roofs with iris’s growing out the top. Stud farms are numerous as this area is famous for racehorse breeding. One could sample cider and Calvados at a winery in Coudray if desired. However, this day brought something we had not experienced on this adventure – pouring rain that seldom let up. For most of us, getting to our destination safely was the goal. That’s not to say we didn’t appreciate the beauty around us as we rode!
Honfleur is a quaint fishing town that surrounds a harbor of fishing boats. The streets are narrow and cobbled where many delectable restaurants and specialty shops (such as cheese, salt, and chocolate) were found. The Church of Saint Catherine was built in the town square in the 15th century, following the Hundred Years War with the British. Built by the local shipbuilders, the church is wooden and contains two naves that are domed to resemble inverted boats. Since the end of the 19th century, a weekly Saturday market has been held in the town square. Many 19th and 20th century artists have painted the church and town square including Claude Monet and his mentor, Eugene Boudin. Of note, Boudin was born in Honfleur, was one of the first French landscape painters to paint outdoors, and influenced many of the early impressionists. Several of us visited the Boudin museum to view his expert marine paintings.
We stayed at the lovely l’Ecrin Hotel, an 18th century mansion with uniquely decorated rooms, beautiful gardens, a heated pool, and a veranda where breakfast was served. In celebration of the rain letting up, Patrick arranged tastings of local cheeses, ciders and Calvados for happy hour in the gardens of our hotel. The town was a joy to explore for its beauty and artistic history along with the culinary delights of this old fishing town.
Alas, all good things must come to an end but not before one, final adventure. On our way back to Paris, we stopped to tour Monet’s house and gardens at Giverny. They are exquisite! Monet designed all the gardens himself just so he could paint them. To see the site of his inspiration for the famous garden collection was truly a gift. Our visit was enhanced by a personal tour guide. A nonprofit organization maintains the house and gardens and over 500,000 people visit every year. We were lucky to be 21 of them.
This trip had it all – scenic rides of varied terrain, moving history, fabulous regional fare and drink, great accommodations and fun people sharing the adventure. Merci beaucoup, Katherine, Julia and Patrick!
[And a very special thank you to Susan Young for this lovely and detailed trip report. We appreciate you.]
Bicycle Adventure Club
PO BOX 23998 San Diego, CA 92193
Telephone (858) 715-9510 office@bicycleadventureclub.org