Ride Coordinator: Kathryn Engle
Report by: Jim McKinley
As described in the Ride Summary, and on the contractor’s website (https://www.easyridertours.com/portugal/vineyards-bike-tours.html) the trip was divided into two segments of about a week each. The first segment was in the central, inland Alentejo region, and the second was in the northern coastal Minho region. The ride began in Evora (in the administrative district of Santarem), and the first segment ended in Marvao (district of Faro). After a transfer by bus, the tour continued in the district of Beja, from the coastal city of Viana do Castelo and inland through the border city of Moncao, crossed the Spanish border and ended in Baiona. Maps and elevation profiles are included in a personal ride journal at http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/JimPortugal2019.
The cultural features of the ride reflected Portugal’s history of conquest. The country was occupied by Celts prior to Roman conquest in third century BC. The Visigoths ruled after the collapse of the Empire, until the Moorish conquest in the 7th century. The Reconquista period then lasted until 1492 when the Moors were defeated. In the late Middle Ages Portugal was gradually united from smaller kingdoms, to be formed into its present borders by the 13th century. The ride was replete with castles, churches, monasteries, and fortress towns, and speckled with Celtic burial structures and ancient monuments. Castle ruins were usually available for clambering.
Our group was a compatible mix of ‘single’ riders and couples, including two couples on tandems. It was surprising to see the tandems struggling up some hills, counter to the dogma (or my misconception) of easy-traveling. On the flats, it was a joy to draft the tandems and they were good-natured about pulling the flock along behind them. Happy hours were well-run and well-tolerated, with lively conversation usually followed by a four-course group dinner. The early-for-Portugal dinner hour of 8:00 was late for many people; however, individual experience showed that the alternative was a sandwich bought early in the day or tourist-centric pizza shop. The tour increased in difficulty. An afternoon rail-trail ride on the first day was short and relatively level, and finished with a van ride back to the hotel. Later in the tour, a cafe lunch was the reward for a steep 1800’ climb into the Spanish Parque Natural do Monte Aloia. Lodging included four pousadas (government-owned landmarks repurposed as lodging): a convent; a Knights-Hospitaller castle monastery; within the walls of a hilltop fortress town; and at a grand hotel above the city of Viana do Castelo. Our final two nights were in the Spanish parador within the castle walls at Baiona.
The first segment proceeded through dry, rolling country dotted with cork oaks and developed plantings of olives, grains, and grapes. The days were hot, and the rides were therefore tiring. Each night’s lodging was within a medieval fortress perched on a hill. The second segment was in greener but no less hilly terrain, where vineyards were small and abundant, often trellised on quarried granite posts. The northern countryside seemed more genteel.
The tour spanned 13 days, with only 7 mandatory riding days, averaging 36 miles and 2500 feet of elevation gain per day, for a total mileage of 255 miles and 17,600 feet of climbing. Additional optional rides and longer ride options added a potential of perhaps 100 mi. and 7000 feet of climbing. Most participated in some of the options.
Bicycle Adventure Club
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