The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Umbria 2023

April 28th to May 11th

Ride Director: Julie Leever
Ride Co-Director: Sue Bunten
Report by: Midge Cross

Umbria is known as The green heart of Italy”. Cycling through the area, we saw lots of green fields, abundant flowers, and listened to the song of spring birds. It’s lovely!

It’s also very hilly. No real long grinders (some might challenge that statement), but lots and lots of ups and then downs. No boring straightaways, almost no major highways with Alfa Romeos tearing by or trucks.The only real downside to this bucolic countryside is the condition of the roads. Sometimes there are lovely bits of new pavement. Often, though, these bits devolve into dreadful conditions: potholes, cracks, places where the roadway is slumping off the hillside. You have to be mentally prepared for the ever changing conditions because there’s no way you can dodge all the tricky places.

And the hill towns: towns were usually built on the tops of hills, the better to be defended from threats. So most days end up with a steep climb and start with a steep downhill. But the towns are stunning. Narrow streets, sometimes cobblestone, flowers planted everywhere, people walking, and the ubiquitous cathedral.

We were lucky enough to be in Assisi for the annual festival/competition between the two halves of the city, the Calendimaggio. What a show! And don’t forget that this is where Saint Francis lived, although he would never recognize the magnificent basilica that now crowns the city. Every town is special in its own way; some more memorable than others. In Piegaro we stayed in a onetime residence of royalty (high, decorated ceilings), in Orvieto we were in a monastery for one night (a little chilly but with extra blankets), in Sorano we had a glorious dinner at Pomario, where the Spalletti Trivelli family makes wonderful wines.

What about the food? If you like pizza, you’ll be in heaven. In Montefalco, we ate at an unpretentious trattoria and had lovely lasagne, and you can always get a green salad. On the road there was usually someplace to get something, which when you’re riding all day is all that matters. The hotel dinners were just fine and the staff friendly and accommodating.

I use RidewithGPS; my phone sits on my handlebars, and I also used a loaned set of headphones (thanks, Sue Bunten) so there was almost never uncertainty about which way to go. The maps and cue sheets were very clear; each evening we would have route wrap, where questions about the next day’s ride could get answered.

Our trip leader, Julie Leever, is a pro. She is always willing to go the extra mile to make sure everything is as it should be. If she were a dog, she’d be a border collie. She speaks Italian, which is a huge plus for riders whose language skills are weak, and helps smooth the way in this very welcoming culture.

This is a great ride; perfect for early season.