The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Salzburg to the Adriatic

August 25th to September 9th

Ride Director: Warner Griswold
Ride Co-Director: Garry Clifton
Ride Driver: Barb Rudolph
Report by: Muriel Rose

Ride leaders, Warner Griswold and Gary Clifton, who had done this trip in 2019, felt it was time to revisit this beautiful part of Europe. Salzburg is the ideal spot to begin a 2-week cycling trip to the Adriatic. It is also famous for the 1965 movie, Sound of Music, which follows the Von Trapp family’s journey to escape the Nazi invasion of Austria. In addition to Austria, we had the opportunity to visit Italy and Slovenia.

At the end of August, 25 riders, hailing from all over the US and Canada, descended upon Salzburg. Though we came from all walks of life, we shared the common interest of traveling by bicycle. Our group rode e-bikes as well as mechanicals, the latter including 3 tandems. Though many were rented, some of us brought our own human powered bicycles.

On our first day of riding around Salzburg, I felt as though I was wandering within a postcard of the beautiful countryside. The urge to break out in song was overwhelming.

Our first travel day was to the village of St. Johann. It follows the Salzach and Saalach rivers with views of the Austrian Alps, we rode on well signed bike paths of the Taurenradweg.

St. Johann was just one night, and it was soon time to move on to Kaprun, our next destination and home for 3 nights. Along the way we were treated to views of the Austrian alps, many cows and white-water rafters on the Salzach River. Many fell into the raging water. It was hilarious.

With 3 nights in Kaprun, a popular ski area, we had several options for hiking and biking. One of the several hiking options included the 10,000 feet Kitzsteinhorn Glacier which required 5 connecting gondolas and trams. Another hiking option was a visit to a hydroelectric dam. That option required two bus rides and a 150-person tram that ascended a 75% grade.

Ride options included a loop ride around lake Zell Am See and/or climbing Grossglockner, the highest surfaced mountain pass in Austria. The last several miles of this climb were on a paved road that exceeded 20%. Everyone was able to find something fun to do.

Our next stop was the village of Bad Gastein for 2 nights. Think thermal springs that are known for their medicinal qualities, beautiful waterfall and the Grand Budapest Hotel in the Austrian Alps-and-you get the idea. We endured some serious climbing (last 2 Km was on grades of 15% to 17%) to our hotel, but the views along the way eased the pain. On our rest day, we had one opportunity for beautiful hiking at the Bad Gastein ski mountain in addition to a ZIP Line ride-across the valley!! Though we rode a gondola to the top, many of us opted to hike 2 miles down to the mid station.

The Austrian Alps, between Bad Gastein and Spittal, are so steep that no roads or paths exist to either ride a bike or drive a car between the two. As a result, our bikes, along with the support van, had to be transported through tunnels on flat bed cars. This route is so popular with cyclists that the cyclists far outnumbered the cars, trucks and motorcycles. Upon exiting the tunnel and unloading the bikes, we were treated to an amazing 8 Km downhill over numerous switchbacks before transferring to bike paths for the remainder of our ride to Spittal. Bob Saward, with one hand steering his bike and the other holding his phone, captured these 8 km on video. What an experience!!

Because we had 2 nights in Spittal, most of us rode on the rest day. The town of Gmund, which is where Ferdinand Porsche built his first car and launched his Porsche factory in 1948, is close to Spittal. So many of us opted to visit the Porsche Museum at Gmund. Others cycled around the Millstatter See near Spittal am Drau. Before long, it was time to mount our bikes and ride to Tarvisio for two nights. Tarvisio, just South of the Austrian Border, is about 56 miles from Spittal.

With two days in Tarviso, many of us seized the opportunity to explore cycling into Slovenia. We had a beautiful sunny day and except for a few short 17% grades, the uphill ride was enjoyable. Another option presented an opportunity to climb the highest cycling route in Slovenia. That route, called Mangart, had a 20% grade near the top. Only a brave few took that option.

Before long, it was time for another travel day along the Alpe Adria Radwag route to Udine, our next stop. Following the Alpe Adria, we had a long mileage day, almost all of which were downhill without requiring much in the way of braking. Along the way, we traversed through perhaps 20 lighted tunnels (only for bikes). The route, from Tarvisio to Undine, began our trek through the Dolomites, leaving the Austrian Alps behind.

Our final travel day brought us to Grado and the beautiful Adriatic Sea. Udine to Grado was once again great riding and mostly downhill. We were treated to Roman ruins along the way, a horse jumping event, a village parade and a professional bike race past the Roman ruins. What a great way to wrap up an amazing trip. We had 2 nights in Grado to soak in the Adriatic and an iconic seaside village. It was finally time to say our goodbyes with some of us going to Venice, some on another BAC trip and the rest of us back to the US.