The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Nagasaki to Hiroshima

March 22nd to April 4th

Ride Coordinator: Albert Balingit
Report by: Leslie Ogden

Our lively BAC group left Nagasaki on a quiet Sunday morning for Sasebo, where the steep hills of Nagasaki finally broke open to the sea.

A ferry ride got us to Hirado Island and its quiet roads and mixed camelia/pine forests on route to Matsuura. We stopped for a history lesson at Kasuga, a remnant Catholic population converted by the Portuguese in the16th century. 

For me the highlight of our trip to Karatsu was the detour to the Imani Arita Pottery Museum.  My grandfather was a tile setter, so I was especially interested in their intricate painting and glazes. Koratsu’s ryokan (traditional inn) was delightful, as were the owners’ 3 young sons who helped us understand a festival begun in the 1800’s that still uses the same magnificent floats.  Later, the oldest boy invited the littlest one to snuggle on his lap as we all listened to Bo on the ukelele.

Thunder and lightning put us on trains to Kurume and gave us a look at Fukuoka’s fine Shinto Shrine. Interestingly, it’s adjacent to a shrine to modern consumerism, a glorious shopping mall. 

From Karume, we climbed some 60 miles to Hikosan, largely through narrow mountain valleys whose flanks were terraced centuries ago and still planted in rice.  Mixed forests ran up the steeper slopes and everywhere cherry trees in bloom.  Lower slopes were scattered with camelias, magnolias, tulips, paperwhites and daffodils. Bo and Bill played old favorites in the spectacular Hotel Hikosan Nagomi. 

We really bundled up for a 30k morning descent through pines, massive bamboo and camelia trees, stately in pools of scarlet.  A conveyer belt brought us fabulous sushi for lunch and a half mile walk underwater got us and our bikes to Shimonoseki. There we enjoyed the calm of the traditional Chofa Gardens all in bloom and the giddy chaos of the Karato Fish Market. 

First stop on the way to Tawarayama Onsen was one of the oldest temples in Japan and its 600-year-old cherry trees were in full bloom! An out-and-back on a fine, sweeping bridge and then on to a little mountain town that rarely sees foreign visitors.  Women in the onsen were happy to chat and to tease me about getting my yakata belted wrong!

The road to Hagi was another spectacular day of mountains and rivers.  Great egrets casing the newly planted rice fields. A man spreading rice on a blue tarp in front of his home.  Veggie gardens prepped for planting.  The Shoin Shrine, cherry blossoms abounding.  Long climbs through cedars, bamboo and towering camelias.  The onsen felt wonderful!

Two fabulous downhills and 11 tunnels on our last day, all low-traffic and safe.  The first downhill was a series of switchbacks followed by 7 tunnels in quick succession. Then a blazing “tunnel” of cherry trees that poured us into a small town festooned with blooms and waterfalls.  More long tunnels then a delicious lunch, pre-ordered. Finally, a second twisty, steep, beautifully wooded downhill on a one-lane path/road that dumped us out at a Shinto Shrine also with waterfall. Ferry to Miyajima Island near Hiroshima and hugs all around.  A really touching evening with love all around.   

🎵Almost Heaven….

A trip like this takes real planning.  We’re all grateful to Albert and Jacqui for their many meetings with Cycling Japan and individual riders before the trip. Also, to Tatts for the great care he put into planning routes, lodging and meals   And special appreciation to Tatts, Shogo and Ayu for all the serious handholding they gave us all along the way.