The Bicycle Adventure Club - Come Ride With Us!

Durango Fandango

August 7th to August 13th

Ride Director: Thomas Rossman
Ride Co-Director: Peggy Rossman
Report by: Richard Ellis

A feast for the senses and a perfect way to spend a week in late summer.  So said the energetic and congenial 24 of us, including first-time leaders Tom and Peggy Rossman, cycling a variety of terrain in and around Durango and the mountainous environs of southwest Colorado.  Durango and its surroundings are of course an outdoor enthusiast's paradise, a mecca for all things "bike" and also quite "bike-friendly", with state, county and most city routes well-marked, shoulders adequate and locals generally considerate of the cycling set.

This inaugural tour used a fixed-base format, giving us a variety of ride options.  Although rated a 2B, all routes were essentially loop or out-and-back and thus could be adjusted to suit individual preference.  Road surfaces were variable in quality but generally good, a rare treat given the large seasonal temperature swings characteristic of "snow country".  The core ride offerings took us well into the foothills of the San Juan Mountains: the Wildcat loop and upriver rides on the Animas and Florida Creek featured rolling terrain and moderate grades, none greater than eight percent.  Our "epic option" - the iconic climb over Molas and Coalbank passes - was offered as a return from Silverton on our trip on the narrow gauge (see below) but was nixed this year by afternoon thunderstorms.

Throughout, we were witness to Mother Nature's spectacular handiwork, with panoramic views and a spectacular color palette features of all rides.  The distinctive topography is a reflection of the unique geologic history of the San Juan region, with the massive uplift of the crystalline core shouldering the sediments of the adjoining basin skyward.  The results are large relief (measured in miles) and a plethora of erosional remnants - mesas, cliffs, canyons, hogbacks, aretes and towers in a variety of colors - carved by the forces of wind, water and ice.

Surprisingly, Durango in the late summer turned out to be a great choice, in spite of the tourist hordes. The large, seasonal crowds had dwindled somewhat, and our host town was at peak efficiency, with countless restaurant and shopping options within a short walk.  The weather, which can be quite variable, gave us essentially perfect riding conditions, with light to no winds, azure skies and the large temperature swings characteristic of the high desert (lows in the 50s, highs in the 80s).  We experienced only the last vestiges of the summer monsoon, with no significant rain events.  As an added treat, our proximity to Mesa Verde gave many of us a pre- or post-ride opportunity to experience the inspiring and otherworldly character of one of the most unique of the NPS parks. 

The Durango area is also the historic center for mining and railroading in the southwest, so the group was provided a special rest-day ride on the iconic narrow gauge to Silverton, center of the silver mining boom of the 1880s.  We rode in the open "Silver Vista" dome car, through the deeply-incised Animas River Canyon, and were regaled by the droll and informative Kevin, who provided us with snacks, drinks, countless anecdotes and a variety of trivia on the railroad's central role in area history.  The return ride by motorcoach over the passes was equally "informative", leaving us feeling like railroad experts, appreciative of the scale of effort required to "tame" this unique region.

Finally, Tom and Peggy are commended, particularly as first-time leaders, for their excellent planning, communication and execution: the pre-trip rating was appropriate, route selection a great intro to the area's diversity, cue sheets and maps - digital and analog - generally "spot on" and the lodging choice excellent (BW Rio Grande), with its central location, biker-friendly staff and daily hot breakfast.  The happy hour was a festive end to each day, with ample libations and Peggy's inspired and creative snacks a special treat.  Special kudos also to Peggy for her generous "remote provisioning", providing drinks and a gourmet picnic lunch on the Vallecito ride.  This tour, conducted in this way and with a little "tweaking", is sure to become a BAC favorite.